The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 19th century.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they carve the leather by hand.
Production is carefully restricted, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines heritage designs with subtle refinements. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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