The John Lobb factory is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a center of footwear production in the 1600s. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For instance, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The line combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen double monks gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez model, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb stands as a defining name in English shoemaking.
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