The John Lobb factory is one of the leading manufacturers in Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the seventeenth century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory remains committed to the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from young French calf hides. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The collection combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in the British footwear industry.
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