John Lobb is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With special blades, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The line combines iconic staples with contemporary tweaks. The classic City II model, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a reinforced sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the 1950s, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as a benchmark in world-class shoemaking.
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